everest base camp: itinerary

Don't believe the Hype


No, I did not see one oxygen bottle on my trek to Everest Base Camp. The truth is that you don't need oxygen to get to 18,000 feet anyway. The "World's Highest Junkyard," as its referred to, is actually the Camp IV site on the South Col, and at 26,000 feet, I was NOWHERE near there! There has reportedly been a lot of cleanup of the site in recent years. An estimated 750 bottles have been removed and approximately 1,500 remain. But let me tell you that in my opinion, from all the garbage I saw in Kathmandu and with no trash collection system in place for the whole country, a pile of oxygen bottles on top of a mountain is the least of Nepal's problems.


journal

Base Camp Trek Itinerary


DAY 1-3
Depart USA-Bangkok-Kathmandu. Lodging at the Yak and Yeti Hotel.

DAY 4
Tour of Kathmandu, including the 3000 year old Swamayabhu (monkey temple), the great Stupa of Bodnath and the chaotic Hindu temple complex of Pashupatineth.

DAY 5
Fly via Russian M-17 Helicopter to the dirt landing strip in Lukla. In Lukla, we meet and join our Sherpa staff, load the yaks and begin the ascent to base camp.  Our first day is an easy walk to the village of Phakding, located on the Dudh Kosi river.

DAY 6
We follow the Dudh Kosi, ascending 2,300' through Himalayan pine and Doedar cedar forests, to the village of Namche Bazaar (11,300').  The village of Namche is an historic trading post where Nepalese and Tibetan traders exchange salt, dried meat, gold and textiles.  Besides being a nice place to shop for traditional crafts, Namche remains the central trading post in the Khumbu, attracting Himalayan and lowland merchants.  We spend two days in Namche affording us the opportunity to acclimate and visit local markets.

DAY 7
Visit sights in Namche Bazaar including the Sherpa museum and local marketplace.

DAY 8
We travel to the village of Thame (12,464').  We spend the evening visiting the home and dining with the family of Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, our Sirdar (lead Sherpa).  This gives us an intimate view of Sherpa culture while visiting a traditional home.

DAY 9
Waking early we climb to the Thame monastery and further explore local Buddhism.  We tour this 400 year-old gompa and learn about its inner workings and the lives of its monks.  From Thame we walk to the beautiful village of Khunde, one of the largest villages in the Khumbu.

DAY 10
We continue on and climb to the village of Tengboche (12,683'), the cultural and religious center of the Khumbu.  At the monastery we attend Buddhist ceremonies and rituals performed by local monks.   Views from Tengboche (one of the finest on earth), include Kwangde 20,293' , Tawachee 21,457', Nuptse 25,843', Lhotse 27,883', Everest 29,021', Ama Dablam 22,487', Kantega 22,235', Thamserku 21,674'.

DAY 11
We travel on to Dingboche (14,450') via the Imja valley.   Dingboche is a stunning village of stone huts known as the summer village for local herders.  The mountain views are outstanding from this valley as Makalu stands in the distance.

DAY 12
We remain in Dingboche for another night to better acclimatize.  We take a 4 hour walk to Chukkung which offers exquisite views of Island Peak and the North Face of Lhotse.

DAY 13
From Dingboche we continue through this high alpine region to the settlement of Lobuje (16,174'), where we spend one night.  This trail passes through a famous Sherpa memorial.  Our lodging in Lobuje is the Italian Research Center.  This not only allows us a glimpse into long-term high altitude research but gives us a night indoors and some relief from the harsh environs.

DAY 14
The trail winds through the high tundra and glacial moraine to Gorak Shep (16,924'), the last inhabited area before Everest Base Camp.  While our Sherpa are setting up camp we make an ascent of Kala Pattar (18,300'), a small peak with excellent views of Everest, Nuptse and nearby Pumori.  Many Everest photos are taken from the summit of Kala Pattar.

DAY 15
We leave Gorak Shep and cross the moraine of the great Khumbu glacier to reach Base Camp, which lies beneath the sweeping ridges of Everest and Nuptse.  Everest Base Camp at 17,300' is a sprawling tent city set amidst glacial debris.  Here the climbers begin final preparations for their ascent of Mt. Everest.  We spend a few hours at base getting a sense of the community and meeting climbers before returning to Gorak Shep. During our visit to camp we venture to the edge of the notorious Khumbu Ice Fall.

DAY 16
We begin our return to lower altitudes and quickly feel the difference in our lungs.  This night is spent in the village of Pheriche (13,907') which is not far from Dingboche. Pheriche has become famous for its high altitude research center.  During our stay we visit the research center and have time to chat with staff physicians.

DAY 17
Enjoying the downhill walks we take our time and return to Tengboche by early afternoon.

DAY 18
From Tengboche we walk back to Namche Bazaar.

DAY 19
Rest day in Namche.

DAY 20
Our final walk (a long one) to Lukla takes most of the day.  From Lukla we prepare for the flight back to Kathmandu.

DAY 21
Early morning flight to Kathmandu and we spend much of the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the deluxe services of the Yak and Yeti hotel.

DAY 22
Walking tour of the city including the temples and sites of Durbar Square and the Thamel section.

DAY 23-24
Early morning departure for Bangkok.

DAY 24-26
A couple extra days spent lounging around in Bangkok before we headed home to the USA.

Note: This list was taken from the Alpine Ascents International itinerary. We booked our trip through their trekking and climbing company based in Seattle, WA. You can check out their website at
alpineascents.com.


I went to Base Camp with my dad in March 1998. We traveled with 12 other Americans in our group. We mostly camped in Sherpa villages along the route to Everest. If you plan to head there I would say it would be pretty easy to travel alone and stay in lodges along the way.


news article

journal
lukla
phakding
namche bazaar
thame
khunde
tengboche
dingboche
the pyramid
gorak shep
kala pattar
base camp
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